Wine Guru
New World surprises meet Old World vintages. Our resident Wine Guru explores the connections between food, wine and culture in his blog.Latest Article
What’s luck got to do with it?
By The weekly winer 28 February 2008 02:33:00
Ah yes, Chinese New Year is forthcoming and brilliant celebrations of bringing luck and prosperity are sure to pop up somewhere near all of us.
For some, this means joyous revelries such as fireworks, lion dances and an excuse for some of us part-Chinese descendants to miss school. But Chinese New Year is much more than that. In fact, there's so much to celebrate and be thankful for that it takes fifteen days to complete the course.
The first day of the Lunar New Year is "the welcoming of the gods of the heavens and earth." Many people abstain from meat on the first day of the New Year because it is believed that this will ensure long and happy lives for them. On the second day, the Chinese pray to their ancestors as well as to all the gods. They are extra kind to dogs and feed them well as it is believed that the second day is the birthday of all dogs. The third and fourth days are for the sons-in-laws to pay respect to their parents-in-law. The fifth day is called Po Woo. On that day people stay home to welcome the God of Wealth. No one visits families and friends on the fifth day because it will bring both parties bad luck. On the sixth to the 10th day, the Chinese visit their relatives and friends freely. They also visit the temples to pray for good fortune and health. The seventh day of the New Year is the day for farmers to display their produce. These farmers make a drink from seven types of vegetables to celebrate the occasion. The seventh day is also considered the birthday of human beings. Noodles are eaten to promote longevity and raw fish for success. On the eighth day the Fujian people have another family reunion dinner, and at midnight they pray to Tian Gong, the God of Heaven. The ninth day is to make offerings to the Jade Emperor.
The 10th through the 12th are days that friends and relatives should be invited for dinner. After so much rich food, on the 13th day you should have simple rice congee and mustard greens (choi sum) to cleanse the system. The 14th day should be for preparations to celebrate the Lantern Festival which is to be held on the 15th night.
So whether it's paying respects to the emperor, the gods, or to each other, it's fairly obvious that the Chinese know how to party, particularly around the dinner table. And all great celebrations are certain to be accompanied by great wine. Here are a few wines to compliment any Chinese New Year Feast.
- For spicy dishes, particularly Szechuan cuisine, try a Gewürztraminer (white).
- For rich dishes, such as Shanghai red-cooked chicken, serve a red Bordeaux.
- For heavier northern dishes, such as Peking duck, try a burgundy such as Pinot Noir, or a Merlot.
- Try serving a Riesling, particularly Johannesburg Riesling, with Cantonese dishes.
- You can also try serving a Chenin Blanc with delicately seasoned Canton dishes.
- If you plan to enjoy one bottle of wine with several different regional dishes, don't get too adventurous. Try a white, fruity wine such as a Chardonnay.
Tips:
- In general, white wines work better with Asian dishes.
- When in doubt, ask your waiter for assistance.
The 1995 Murphy Goode Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($10.99) is a textbook sauvignon blanc. Pale straw in color, the wine has a fresh, grassy nose. Crisp on the tongue, it is pleasantly dry with earthy mineral flavors. The wine's flavors developed nicely during the course of the evening and we all thought its crispness complemented the spicy dishes especially well.
1995 Murphy Goode Reserve Fume, Alexander Valley ($14.99). The wine has a golden straw color. Its reserve quality is immediately apparent in its lushly herbaceous, orange peel nose that is more complex than the Fume Blanc, Sonoma County. Full bodied and buttery on the tongue, the wine is very dry with a delicate lemon/citrus flavor. It also has a wonderful finish. This wine's complex nose and citrus flavors truly enhanced the shrimp in black bean sauce. (The Reserve is certainly worth the four or five extra dollars.)
1994 Hugel "Gentil," Alsace ($9.99). The wine lives up to its name, gentil (gentle). It appears to be a delicate blend of riesling and pinot blanc. Very pale straw in color, it has hints of vanilla on the nose with an underpinning of herbaceousness. Crisp on entry with a bit of acidity, it offers flavors of vanilla and minerals that cut through even the spiciest of the dishes. extraordinary with chicken and cashews and spicy eggplant.
1995 Bonny Doon American Riesling Pacific Rim ($10.99). This is a beautiful riesling. Light straw in color with vanilla and grass on the nose. There's a slight bite on entry followed by very dry citrusy flavors. Steely on the tongue, the wine has a great finish. It's a perfect wine for the hotter side of Chinese cuisine.
Grand Dragon Advanced Cabernet Dry Red Wine
Grand Dragon Exquisite Chardonnay Dry White Wine
Grand Dragon Advanced Italian Riesling Dry White Wine